Just a few days after the long-awaited 5th Anniversary of London Fashion Week Men’s Spring / Summer 18 has ended, we have summarised some of the most popular trends, colours, and designers. If you missed the shows and events, don’t panic, the THEN AND NOW team was there covering everything as it happened from emerging trends to the coolest pieces we’ll probably see everywhere next season.
But, before we tell you all about #LFWM SS18, we’d like to take you back to memory lane and remind you where it all started.
1. The History of London Fashion Week
The first London Fashion Week was produced by the British Fashion Council, a nonprofit trade group in order to promote British design within the UK and abroad. The event was held in the car park of the Commonwealth Institute (in the area of Kensington) in February 1984. Among the debutants, there were designers like David Fielden, Ghost and John Galliano. The British Fashion Council introduced in 1984 a Designer of the Year award that was won by Katharine Hamnett. The following year, the British Government together with the Vogue UK editor sponsored the LFW show.
After successful 1980s, LFW suffered in the early 90s during and post-recession. In 1992, the event was confined to just a few designers. In 1993, to give recognition to up and coming designers, the British Fashion Council offered designers the opportunity to showcase at the LFW. Stella McCartney was one of the first taking advantage of it, and in fact, her 1995 collection, modelled by Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, sold out in its entirety.
In 1997, LFW kicked off a national debate about anorexia in the fashion industry. This led to launching the Model Health Inquiry and other initiatives to promote a healthy body image.
LFW again encountered difficulties in the 2000s, with the migration of the designers to other Fashion Weeks, and American designers reluctant to travel post-9/11, facilitating Topshop’s 2005 debut at LFW as the first high street store to be featured.
Finally, in the late 2000s, London Fashion Week gained its its recognition again with a lot of home-grown designers showcasing their talent. Somerset House became the new venue for London Fashion Week. In 2010, London Fashion Week became the first Fashion Week to broadcast all the catwalk shows over the web.
We particularly loved the catwalk shows from of the following designers. These stood out to us as key brands and collections to know.
Charles Jeffrey is a Scottish-born designer, illustrator and radical creative. Graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2015, he has been nominated for the 2017 LVMH Young Designers Prize. He had its debut stand-alone catwalk show on Saturday 10th June 2017 afternoon after three seasons under the umbrella of Fashion East’s MAN.
Mr Jeffrey considers his label to be the product of a collective of fellow art school creatives, be they seamstresses, dancers or choreographers. In fact, the catwalk was a bizarre and joyous riot of colourful energy featuring dancers, pink cardboard dragons, drawings and lashings of gay couture.
Kent & Curwen
Kent & Curwen is a 1920s vintage British men’s wear brand that has had a new life breathed into it by Daniels Kearns, its creative director since 2015, and David Beckham, one of the brand’s owners. Kent @ Curwen used codes of traditional university sporting attire but with the 21st century update.
Mr Beckam said that the clothes, cricket whites, striped rugby, sweaters and classic lightweight rain jackets continued to be inspired by the brand’s sporting roots, and a sense of patriotism. David Beckham, a model during the show, was wearing Kent & Curwen outfit from top to toe. He wanted to “reinforce that sense of history and heritage that’s we’ve had. The Union Jack, The English Rose, The Three Lions, those symbols all mean something to people, particularly on the field. Sport has always had the power to bring people together”
What We Wear
What We Wear by Tinie Tempah, is a contemporary brand inspired by the wardrobe of the modern man. This ethos consists of incorporating timeless style with minimalism and fashion forward pieces, pushing the boundaries of menswear. What We Wear is focused on four core fundamentals: Fabric, Silhouette, Texture and Colour. The brand uses a minimal pallet and explores the shapes and styles of the classic street style.
Rose is one of the most exciting talents in London menswear. She also designs and consults for Balenciaga. By exploring both personal and imagined histories, Martine Rose takes icons or motifs from the past and reimagines their use in the present. During this fashion SS18 show, the models, both male and female, wore fleeces, cargo shorts, panelled hoodies in block shades and wide-leg jeans; unfashionable outdoorsy clothes that from her hand received high fashion elevation.
PRONOUNCE is a high end designer brand established by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou who are now based in Milan and Shanghai. This season PRONOUNCE found inspiration from James Turrekk’s mysterious photography series ‘Deep Sky’. The photographic work depicts a minimal intense black and white scene of sky drawings and light projections. PRONOUNCE Spring/Summer 2018 collection plays with the use of simple shades and layers of structure. The colour pallet uses shades of blue, whites, pale purples and nude colours feeding from classic Chinese workwear.
3. London Fashion Week Men’s – SS18
3.1 The colours of the next Trend: Monotone & Burnt Orange
After a season of extravagant colours and patterns, this week we saw a return to a single tone, the monotone is back.
This colour palette is not alway boring! It adds a sense of uniformity to a look and allows room to be more creative with accessories and shoes. Oliver Spencer, Phoebe English and Xander Zhou all went big with the theme.
Despite the monotone trend, another colour attracted our attention in the shows – Burnt Orange.
3.2 Highlight: Baggy Trousers
The loose-fit trousers that emerge seasons after seasons in womenswear are making a big play also in menswear this season. This kind of trousers is the new alternative to skinny trousers, that have been constricting our blood flow for years.
4. Street Style
The streets outside London Fashion Week Men’s 2018 shows were the catwalks of thousands of influencers and celebs, who wanted to show their extravagant, experimental and unique styles. Scroll down to see 9 wonderful fashion shots by the photographer Simon Lesley.